"Give a girl the right shoes ..........."

So this article was going to be about the rise of leather in the latter of this season that will inevitably find its footing firmly in our autumn /winter wardrobes but then something much more important came up. I happened across a survey by foot care brand compeed published by vogue that found of all the women in Europe, British women wear (on a daily basis) the highest heeled shoe , averaging at roughly 3.5-4 inches far surpassing our French and Italian sisters (the French donning a mere  2.5 inches) . hardly top the agenda for the next  united nations crisis meeting  so far but bear with, the article then went on to apply this to the principals of aesthetic psychology. In essence these ideas address the way in which we relate appearance to our knowledge and perception of the external word a subject and theory I became very fascinated with while studying fashion/textiles during my A-level days. Anyway I digress, the article in essence went on to say that we afford height certain connotations of power, authority , beauty , control status  ect and studies have shown we afford those with height more respect and authority (different to power and responsibility) we are more intimidated by them ect.  In essence the piece was getting at women in the workplace and how women in strong positions within a company are feeling that they have to wear such a high heeled shoe in order to attain this height and its connotations.                                                                                                          

  Exaggerating height in many cases can have a profound effect on the physical form of the body as well as mental perception, sense of self ect. When we put on a heeled shoe it raises the heel (duh) bringing it closer in line with the leg, what his does for the body is it makes you stand properly ( and generally strong posture indicates confidence and authority, grace ect) and actually gives the illusion of elongated limbs adding a sense of tone to the form.  And in all fairness do make you feel sexier , stronger and more powerful  as a woman something many men are both attracted to and intimidated by  and certainly the heel does have a profound effect ad power over the opposite sex (my ex-boyfriend even had a minor fetish for my heels) but, when applied to aesthetic principles this survey appears to quite indefinitely infers that in order for women to command respect (particularly in the workplace ) she must (among other things) don a pair of four inch heels that could be potentially permanently damaging to her feet ( now ladies I’ m all for slipping on a sexy pair of stilettos and have admitted on several occasions to not owning flats but really !) moreover it appears then to imply that the united kingdom affords its women –particularly those in the workplace-  the least respect  and that in order to be seen as an equal (and in fact to excel  in a corporate environment a woman  must appear to significantly better her male counterparts to even begin to be taken seriously) within society? What kind of world is this where a woman must risk permanent damage to her feet and in some cases spine in order to be noticed and respected in her environment? And really if you look at it not much has fundamentally change since feminism an women’s lib, a woman still earns less than her male counterpart , women everywhere find maternity leave almost impossible  as they are generally phased out upon returning to their previous jobs, I personally know many strong professional women all of whom were made aware that maternity leave ,, unless they chose not to take it or carried on doing much of their work from home mean the need of their employment with that company .                                                                   

now many of you readers will scoff  at this claiming that it’s only a minority of employers who do this and things have changed for women at work but really how many of you have been on maternity or felt she had to wait until the last possible moment to take leave and be back asap ? and to those women out there who have and have decent bosses who respect a woman’s fundamental  right to bear children and work  without being penalized for the children she may have ( in her wage packet ) or being gradually pushed out of her job once she has said children  I say congratulations. However , the harsh reality is that that women , in 2012 are still deal ta really raw deal by the workplace, particularly in the corporate environment ,and why you may ask/ because fundamentally nothing has changed, because the companies are still owned and run by the same bigoted , philistine men who openly discriminated against women only some 30 years ago.                                                                                                                                         

   Now of course I don’t suggest that women burn their heels like we did with our bras in the seventies no and realistically no one will notice if you move to a more foot-friendly shoe and it would be extremely hypocritical of me to do so and such was not the aim of this piece I am simply commenting on the harrowing results of a survey I happened to stumble upon and what it says about the eternal tragedy of our society.

                                                                          

Wardrobe essentials for going to uni

Ok so im going back to uni in a couple of months and recently ive been getting asked a lot about  what to wear at uni and what to take ect.  Obviously it depends on what uni you go to and the course you’re doing how much of an effort people make ( another thing I often find myself being quizzed on when im home) but in my opinion you should always make at least some effort in the morning and put a little thought into what you’re going to be wearing. I know a lot of people will read this and say ‘uni’s not about what you wear but what you learn ect’ but really what you put on your back says a lot about who you are , your outlook and can really put you in a really great mind-set.  Rant aside , when you go to uni, you are building your first really adult wardrobe it will probably see you through your time at uni and into the ‘real world’ and when pre uni shopping that can be something to consider . obviously you want to keep on top of current trends but equally you want staple piece that can be easily styled and made more trend focused. So here is what I feel are the staple items every student should have in her wardrobe and a few extras ;)

First and foremost, and I really cant stress this enough good quality underwear is literally the single most important thing in your closet  it can be your best friend or your worst enemy  so make sure you get it right. It really will take you so far and is the building block of you look, an ill-fitting bra or panties can be the total downfall of an otherwise sensational look. It is definitely worth investing in good underwear as it’ll take you far. When bra shopping look for styles with an underwire (and preferably some boning in the bra for added structure) as these give more support , look better and are actually better for your boobs. Try and make sure the underwire is metal as opposed to plastic as this will make the bra last longer and means its of a higher quality.  Also, consider investing in spanx , this may sound  little Bridget jones but they really pull you in in all the right places and reduce VPL in skin tight apparel(. Jessica Alba swears by them so  they must work).  A good bra should sit comfortably on the body and shouldn’t pinch or bulge, a good way to make sure you’re buying the right size  is to get measured, this can cost but it is really worth it in the long run.  Personally I would recommend la senza, New look and ( in the uk) M&S or john Lewis if you want to get measured.

Secondly,  good pairs of well fitted jeans are staples of every student wardrobe. Find a brand you like that fits well, denim is one of those things where it is really worth shopping around and ALWAYS try on every pair of jeans or denim wear before you buy. Once you have a well-fitting brand stock up on different styles, a skinny jean in a dark denim is an easy way to add a more stylish touch to any outfit and is easily converted from day to night with a pair of heels. Personally, jean shorts with tights  were and still are my staple  denim just like jeans they can be so versatile and useful for those impromptu nights out when you may only have time to change shoes or  re-apply makeup. I recommend taking old skinny jeans and going online to find a good tutorial on making them into jean shorts, a lot of the time you’ll find they fit a lot better than ones you buy off the rack. Finally, when buying jeans (particularly skinny) always check the fabric content , if there is too much nylon or stretch fabric the jeans will quickly sag. Flare styles should be long enough to wear heel with but not trail too much on the floor.  Check out : gap, Abercrombie, Hollister, New Look, H&M and Primark (surprisingly can be really good )

Definitely another one of my uni must haves is at least one flattering classic cocktail length dress.  I love this piece because again its so versatile, dress  it up with heels and a clutch or dress down with a casual boyfriend blazer belt and pumps, if you only bring one ‘nice’ dress to uni ( and believe me you will need it) most people will say a “little black dress” is the on to bring , and on some levels I’m inclined to agree as long as its classic and flattering it will never go out of style and is he perfect building block for any number of looks but generally a well fitted dress in a flattering colour will serve for almost any occasion.

                                                                                                                                         

Tank tops, need I say more,. In as many colours and styles as you can find. Seriously they go with everything, literally my staple was tank top (usually black to match the jean shorts /hotpants) and denim shorts like seriously, they are soo easy to dress up or down thy are an essential in your uni wardrobe.
 On that note, having a few good cardigans in varying styles is also a really good way to change up an outfit and will keep you warm in those transitional months.

Another thing that I really can't stress the importance of is a bag that holds everything, there is no substitute for a bag that can hold your laptop make up heels and a spare outfit along with hair styling tools and still be nice enough to take to the club and dump in cloak room. Look for details like metal accents or interesting prints  that make that day to night transition easier, particularly if like me you either have lot of impromptu nights out ( another reason why I always keep emergency accessories and a change of heels in my bag) or a full day then going straight out only stopping at halls to change(as can often be the case with so many students living on campus) it is surpising how much paper you actually accumulate some days so shopping around for an investment can be a good idea.

Having a few dressy tops too can really glam up a simple daywear look. Look for fabrics such as satin , lace and be more aware of different prints  cuts and fabric manipulations such as gathers , pleats , and drapery.

Similarly ,Get a well-fitting trouser in black or dark grey with a wide leg to wear on job interviews and recruiting sessions. Your dress trouser should be long enough to wear with heels, but not so long that they drag on the ground. On that note, you should also invest in a really nice black tube skirt , you can dress it up with a white button down or chiffon blouse for interviews or a job or pair with a classy top or bralet for the club. It really is a must have I honestly dont know what I would do without mine.

 Similarly , a couple of well-fitting simple white button down blouses are a must. Probably used for interviews, you should look for one with a little stretch and flattering cut . look for darts up the front and r near the bust . they will give you a more sculpted look and cleaner finish if bought in correct size. Also useful  if your SU  has a school disco themed evening. Similarly, one of my personal faves is the satin blouse,  buy one in a jewel colour like purple or mocha depending on skin tone and you can instantly set yourself apart. They look so much more fashion forward and can look so much classier than a simple the button down , so versatile and look grate either paired with a high waisted black skirt or dress  pants and waistcoat.

A well cut jacket for those transitional months that matches most of you clothes is also a key essential in your uni wardrobe . the cut is the single most important thing here so really spend time trying on and looking at each piece, good tailoring can last a  lifetime so its really worth making an investment. Following on from this, a good winter coat in a classic or well fitted style is timeless and again can be worth spending a bit of extra time and money to get a really good one you’ll wear time and again.

shoes are generally more personal, I personally live in stilettos and heels I don’t think I actually own a pair of flat shoes but saying that I do have every day and clubbier heels. Most people will want a couple of pars of casual every day flats and a few dressier ones. I really advise you to have also at least three ( one of which basic black and maybe a bit more comfortable) good pairs of heels in your wardrobe , and really make them an investment because if you take care of them they really will last and last and you will need them at some point they can be a classic or outrageous as you like just make sure you can walk in them and do invest in some good gel soles to go with them .

summer skirts too are a must for me but may not be on everyone’s list, I personally like to find skirts in either classic block colours or interesting prints that can easily be mixed and matched as well as having on more formal worky ( mine's a cream and black polka dot form new look) skirt for those more formal times.

 Tights ,tights, tights, tights, I cannot say it enough. Tights were huge this winter and will continue to be popular into next winter. Black opaque tights are inexpensive and so basic to a wardrobe. They look so chic with heels, flats and most dresses.

 And finally a well-stocked accessories drawer with belts ( pay attention to wait belts they’ll be huge ) gloves ( also going to be huge) and jewellery that will update and change up any number of items in your wardrobe remember since accessories will be  huge in the coming seasons really make the most of it and consider how each piece changes the overall look. Think of it like creating a character or a costume. Accessories pull a look together so really use accessories to in essence create the overall look using your wardrobe stapes. Take time browsing vintage stores and charity shops as well as high street faves to inject a sense of individual style into your look.  

Autumn/winter trends: country casuals meets haute couture

This autumn, as many will be aware is, from a fashion point of view particularly interesting. It comes to us, at a time when many face years of austerity as the result of a crippling recession not experienced since the war. It also comes, as many will note at a rather unique point in history, her majesty the queen has just celebrated her diamond jubilee on the very same year that London is scheduled to host the summer Olympics. This year the catwalks have really reflected these events, with a distinct ‘britishness’ being felt among many designers, particularly in their spring/summer collections which featured  elegant Florals on classic cuts which can only be described as quintessentially British. This ‘britishness’ though is one of a nostalgic nature, reflecting and in many ways giving a nod to the way in which the times we now experience mirror that of 50 years ago. Most notable among such trend resurgences is the resurrection of the ball gown and use of sumptuous evening fabrics and couture techniques reworked into everyday wear. It is not surprising then that in looking to the trend for next season, I am greeted almost with mirror images of the Dior ‘new look’ everywhere I turn. Classic tailoring and precise structure have been used to create the most flattering and feminine shiluettes accentuated by these seasons must have the waist belt. 

looking to the trends of next season, one theme kept cropping up among designers, vogue.com calls it ‘countryside alliance’  and sees the earlier country influences really mature and come into their own as a viable high fashion trend. This season, look out for familiar plaids and tweeds as well as beautiful expert tailoring that appears to provide the base  for all of next seasons trends and is most definitely reminiscent of the Dior ‘new look’ of the late forties and fifties.  The coat too takes centre stage with designers such as Matthew Williamson, Burberry Prosum , Paul smith  and McQueen showing beautiful dramatic coats in earthy tones and dramatic royal purples that ooze opulence.                         

What is so great about this trend is that its super versatile, pair a tweed blazer with jeans and vintage looking pearls to add a touch of sophistication or take the lead from Burberry Prosum who paired classy tweeds with simple crisp white shirts for a clean cut yet dramatic look.

 The trouser too has undergone huge makeovers this year, and the statement trouser one of this summer’s staples will carry through into next season with softer tweedy checked prints. Be careful though, the cut of your trouser this season is more important than ever, make sure you know which cuts flatter your body shape because tailoring is at the heart of every look this season there are so many ways to wear the trouser there is no excuse for not having this staple in your wardrobe.

This autumn will also see the accessory really come into its own and move into the foreground of fashion. As the trends for the upcoming season become more dramatic often telling stories within themselves and taking on a more costume like effect ( possibly mirroring the need to escape from the bleakness of the current socio-economic and political climates) so the image one portrays becomes even more character like. What this means is that the finer details have never been more important, just like in costume it is the smallest details that really tie the whole story of the character together and really bring them to life, fashion accessories this season will be doing the same , no longer an afterthought , the accessory will be the glue that binds your look together  and will really take you  to that next level with your look and turn a really quite average outfit into a classy fashion forward piece that will really put you in the spotlight. Look out for vintage accessories, one off broaches and embellishments with long thin grouse style feathers the earthy tones will compliment your tweeds and take that country  theme one step further  (why not even add a feather to your hat), remember, try to think about creating a character with any look next season think about all the little details that will take you one step further and really pull the look together, scour the charity shops ( Oxfam and oxam.com happen to do an amazing selection of vintage accessories coats and dresses that pinpoint many of a/w’s key trends) and vintage stores for pearl style necklaces to put under shirt collars and hats . Hats are playing a huge role this season, we only have to look to Vivienne Westwood and Ralph Lauren (famous for this kind of trend) to see how a well-chosen hat tipped to the side again really pulls the look together creates the character and ups the fashion anti. Gloves too will be huge through every trend this season, try a pair of leather driving gloves for an added detail when doing this look remember  this season is really about all the minute details that really make an everyday look into something special.  

To top it all off the classic riding boot is the quintessential accessory for this trend it really makes the country statement and further helps refine and pull the look together, remember when creating a ‘look’ you really want to make a statement and to do that you really need to make sure your accessories make the look clear . a knee high boot is perfect for that equestrian feel while retaining the versatility to work with other looks.  Tousle or lightly wave/curl your hair or wear  up with clean fresh  makeup to really complete the look. why not take inspiration from the nude and pink lip collections from Dior also seen on the high-street in Kate moss for Rimmel London.